South Africa

Friday, March 2, began at about 6 with a sunrise over Table Mountain. It was a beautiful sight to see and what was more amazing was that it was clear. Table Mountain is a flat-topped mountain in Cape Town and is famous around the world for its uniqueness. We took some pictures, ate some breakfast and watched the ship pull into port. We then went to the student union for a diplomatic briefing by the United States consul in Cape Town, who discussed safety concerns in South Africa. We were then welcomed to Cape Town by the Premiere of the Western Cape (like their governor). He spoke very eloquently of trying to bridge the gaps that separate religions and cultures and to create a peaceful society free of terror and fanaticism. Both Archbishop Tutu and the Premiere have helped build my faith in faith. After the ship was cleared we (family minus Tyler (Hey Ty, we still love you!), Alissa, Jay, Casey, Gary and Diana) headed up Table Mountain via taxi then cable car. This was a gondola like contraption with a 360 degree view of the mountain and city of Cape Town. We ate lunch atop the mountain and then went for a two hour long to the highest point on Table Mountain. We took the cable car back down and then took the taxi to the ship where we ate dinner. Next, Alex, Alissa and I went to The University of Cape Town for an evening of theatre. Alex and I saw Truth in Translation and Alissa went to Everyone Else. Truth in Translation is about the translators’ perspective of The Truth and Reconciliation Commission. It was a very moving play and truly showed the important role that Archbishop Tutu played in the peaceful end to Apartheid. It was quite hilarious because the translators made fun of the Archbishop and he was in the house watching and laughing along with everyone.

The following morning Alex, Alissa and I went on an SAS trip to Cape Point and Cape Peninsula (Cape of Good Hope). We first stopped at Hout Bay, a small fishing town where we purchased some souvenirs and enjoyed the scenic views. We then headed to the Cape of Good Hope, but unfortunately it was raining and we could not see much of anything. Next, we headed to a nearby beach to check out the penguins that had moved in just 13 years ago. They were quite cute, waddling around and posing for pictures. After that, we headed to a seafood lunch (mussels, fish and crabs). Alissa was unable to stomach the seafood platter and decided to get the steak instead. It was not until she was completely done with it that she found out that it was not beef steak but ostrich steak. What an adventurous girl! We then headed back to the ship, had dinner and decided to go out to a few bars on Long Street with some friends from the ship. Unfortunately the night ended up abruptly when Alex had the camera stolen. It was a frustrating experience, but did not ruin our time in South Africa.

The next morning we began our safari journey. We had a 2 hour flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg followed by a 6 hour bus ride to Thornybush Game Reserve. We were greeted by our rangers in their land rovers and taken on a wild Disneyland-like ride to Thornybush Game Lodge. This place was the epitome of luxury. We were welcomed with the most delicious iced tea and a fabulous dinner. The lodge is not enclosed so we had to have night porters take us to our rooms for fear that there might be a large animal on the path.

The next morning began with a 5 am wake up call. After our first of seven meals for the day, we hopped on the land rovers and began our journey. The land rovers were open topped with a spotter on front (July) and a ranger driving (Greg). Our group consisted of some new people, Alessa and Kristin, and the usual suspects, Alissa, Alex, and me. Our first day was a bit humorous. Our first sighting was a cheetah, a rare find in the wild. We saw several bucks and then were hot on the trail of a few rhinos. July and Greg got out to look at some prints left by the rhinos and found them at the river bed. We then raced off to the river bed where we got stuck in the sand. Alex and I got out and helped July and Greg push the land rover out of the rut, but by the time we were free, the rhinos had disappeared. We then went off in search of an elephant, but upon seeing it got a flat tire. After changing the spare tire we returned to the elephant, saw some giraffes and then headed back to the lodge. After a hearty breakfast, we went on an hour long walking safari. Greg pointed out a few smaller animals and some important plants to know in case we were lost in the savannah. After a nice long nap (where we were visited by some baboons), we headed out on our second game drive. Here we saw some more bucks, a heard of elephants and stumbled upon a younger male lion. One of the elephants walked briskly to within a few feet of July. Unfortunately, we had nowhere to go because there was a large tree behind us. July was forced to pull out his machete and Greg had to rev the engine before the elephant chose a new path. When we saw the lion a similar close encounter occurred when the lion decided that the tire would make a cute play toy. Fortunately we were not blocked in and could simply back away quickly. The lion then attempted to snag a wildebeest but was unsuccessful. Oh, did I mention we got 2 more flat tires before heading to our sundowner. On the day we got stuck in the river bed once, 4 flat tires (1 happened during lunch), 2 near death experiences and yet we still had an absolutely amazing day.

Greg was not as happy about the progress that he had made and vowed to make it up to us. He said he would show at least 3 of the big 5 game (cape buffalo, rhino, elephant, lion, leopard) the next day. Our first find of the new day were some zebras and giraffes. What interesting looking animals. We then saw a pride of lions that got within a few feet of the vehicle, but this time just passing by. We then spotted some leopard tracks and decided to work with another group to find the leopard. After a few hours of slowly closing in on the leopard, the other group spotted it. Unfortunately by the time we got there it had already disappeared. After another half hour we decided to head back to the lodge. Just as Greg was announcing our plans we turned around and zipped off to find the leopard. The other group had again caught a glimpse of the leopard and luckily it stayed in the tree long enough for us to see it. After another large breakfast and walking safari, we headed back to bed for a nice nap. The last game drive was going to be “the easiest” because we had already seen the hardest ones. Our first spot was of the cape buffalo; they are ugly animals that look like they have a greasy hair do that has the part right in the middle. We then finished our big five by spotting a rhino resting in the grass. They are such beautiful animals that have been around for so many years. To top it off, we ended with the hippos. After an elated sundowner, we headed back for our final dinner in the savannah. Even though I had my doubts about Greg and July, they turned out to be the best trackers and we were the first and one of only 2 range rovers on all safari trips to see all big 5 game.

The following morning we woke up at 6 and headed to the busses for our 6 hour drive to Johannesburg. We arrived back at the ship after our 2 hour flight to Cape Town and spent an hour waiting to get on. I had an awesome time on the safari, but the one frustrating thing was that the travel agency did not calculate the time it would take to travel from Cape Town to Thornybush and we missed 2 of our 6 game drives. That night I had dinner (crocodile and waterbuck) at a restaurant by the harbor and then went out to a bar with some friends.

The following morning was Kevin’s FDP (faculty led trip) to the Desmond Tutu HIV Center at the ________ Township in Cape Town. The family (minus Tyler) all went and it was a great opportunity to understand the severity of the issue and some very simple prevention measures that can be enacted to help curb the high rates of infection. There was a short presentation about the things that the Tutu Center is doing and a play from the local awareness group. We then went on a tour of the township. It really was like something you see in a movie or on those adopt-a-child commercials and I couldn’t help but feel overwhelmed by the poverty. These living situations are not humane by any standards and have re-sparked my desire to work in politics to make a change. We are far too advanced a world to let so many people continue to be treated as though they are less that human. The one source of true hope was in the smiles of all the people of the township, especially the children. We must realize that these are people that share all the same feelings of happiness and sadness as us. After returning to the clinic for a tour, we returned to the ship where everyone seemed very moved by the trip. Alex, Alissa and I decided to spend our last few hours in Cape Town at the Green Street Market where we picked up some souvenirs. We then headed back to the harbor for some pizza and groceries and then hopped on the ship well in advance of the “On Ship Time”. After everyone had returned to the ship, the Kayelitsha Choral Group came and sang some choral music for the entire shipboard community. It is one of my favorite types of music and was absolutely amazing. South Africa is an amazing country; one with many problems, but also a place of great progress and hope. I encourage everyone to visit. I definitely plan to return in 2010 for the World Cup.

Things I’ve Learned In South Africa:
-There is a reason they call Table Mountain a mountain.
-The Cape of Good Hope is not the Southernmost point in Africa (Cape Agulhas is!)
-Ostrich tastes quite a bit like beef.
-It is not just a ride, that elephant is real.
-That hissing noise is not a snake, it’s a flat tire.
-That guy who had 5 flat tires and was stuck in a rut actually does know what he is doing.
-Crocodile does not taste like chicken! Yuck!
-Restorative justice can do more for a society that retributive justice.
-People in Africa are the same as people in the United States and need to be treated as such.